# What happens to a wave as it approached the shore?

## What happens to a wave as it approached the shore?

As waves approach the shore, the bottom of the wave meets the ocean floor. As they drag across the bottom, the front waves slow down, and wavelength is reduced. The friction along the bottom slows the base of the wave down while the water at the surface continues forward.

How do waves react to the shore?

Refraction is the reason why surf waves often line up parallel to the beach. Even if waves are coming in from deep water at an angle to the beach, the move to shallower water means that the waves will slow down and curve around (refract) so they are more parallel as the surf hits the beach.

### Do waves happen in lakes?

Most lakes are so small that fetch considerations are unimportant. Studies in larger lakes, however, have shown that the height of the highest waves are related to the fetch. In these lakes, waves as high as several metres are common, although waves of about 7 metres (23 feet) are the highest to be expected.

How are waves formed on a lake?

Waves are formed by the energy of wind blowing the across the surface of the water. Wind Speed – Strong constant winds create larger waves, as opposed to short bursts of wind. Optionally, lolling short breezes may create ripples. Wind Duration – The longer winds gust across open water, the larger waves will be.

## Why do waves break as they approach the shore?

When the Energy Meets the Ocean Floor As waves reach the shore, the energy in front of the wave slows down due to friction with the shallow bottom. The wave breaks, and it usually does so in water depth that is 1.3 times the wave height.

How does water waves cause damage to beaches?

Waves will spread the sediments along the coastline to create a beach. Waves also erode sediments from cliffs and shorelines and transport them onto beaches. Waves continually move sand along the shore and move sand from the beaches on shore to bars of sand offshore as the seasons change.

### What are waves in a lake called?

A seiche is a standing wave oscillating in a body of water. This animation shows a standing wave (black) depicted as a sum of two propagating waves traveling in opposite directions (blue and red).

Why do waves always go to shore?

When waves meet shallow water they slow down. They always bend towards the shallow side. This is why they bend towards the shore. It is a process called refraction.

## Why do waves break as they approach the shoreline quizlet?

Explain why waves break as they reach shore. As deep water waves become shallow water waves, they interact with the ocean floor. Water particles along the bottom slow down decreasing the space between crests. The top of the wave is moving faster than the bottom and gravity causes the wave to crash to the shore.

What happens to a wave as it approaches the shore?

Figure 10.3.1 As waves approach shore they “touch bottom” when the depth equals half of the wavelength, and the wave begins to slow down. As is slows, the wavelength decreases and the wave height increases, until the wave breaks (Steven Earle “Physical Geology”).

### How are waves affected by the depth of the water?

, but in shallow water wave speed depends on the depth ( section 10.1 ). When waves approach the shore they will “touch bottom” at a depth equal to half of their wavelength; in other words, when the water depth equals the depth of the (Figure 10.3.1). At this point their behavior will begin to be influenced by the bottom.

How does the slope of the seafloor affect the way waves break?

The base of the wave is slowed down by friction against the sea bottom, while the top of the wave rushes ahead, so the wave crest begins to lean more and more forward until it topples over, and breaks on the shore. Describe how the slope of the seafloor controls the way a wave breaks.

## Why are there large waves in the Bay?

Now all of the initial wave energy is concentrated in a relatively small area off of the point, creating large, high energy waves (Figure 10.3.6). In the bay, the refraction has caused the wave fronts to refract away from each other, dispersing the wave energy, and leading to calmer water and smaller waves.